ina_jean: (Default)
posted by [personal profile] ina_jean at 02:58pm on 19/05/2016 under ,
I decided to knit the body in one piece on a circular needle (I keep calling then 'cable needles', because they are long cables - forgetting that a cable needle is something quite other - forgive me.)

The pattern's largest size gives 90 stitches for the back and 42 for each front - a total of 172, which was what I started with, but worked up a bit short for my 40" waist - so I am now working with 198 - and will be plying the tape measure as I go!

Cast on with the pink yarn and knit 15 rows (2.5") of 1x1 ribbing on 3.50mm needles.

Change to white yarn and 4.5mm needles (I love Knitpro needles, you just unscrew the smaller needles and screw on the larger ones). Mark off 21 stitches in first section, then 20 stitch groups to end - this is essential in keeping track of the pattern which is a four-stitch repeat - so you know within 4 repeats if you've gone wrong.

I ended up frogging the first three rows four times before getting the hang of the pattern - in future I'll knit up the tension square in pattern to get the rhythm right. In fact it's quite simple. K1 at start of row, then K2, Yarn over needle, slip one, knit one, pass slipped stitch over. Repeat to end then K1 to finish, turn. P1, P2, Yarn over needle, p two together. Repeat to end, p1. After the first two rows the second stitch of each 4-stitch repeat will be made into the yarn over loop - if not you've gone wrong!

After a few inches the work started to slope alarmingly to the left. I assumed this was my error in the early rows, and frogged back to the ribbing to start again,, but it seems that the slope is a result of psso on the knit rows but knitting two together on the purl ones (slipping a stitch slopes the work left - K2tog doesn't compensate with a right hand slope. So I am experimenting with slipping on both the knit and purl rows - do not want to frog back again.

If not I shall call it my 'Raspberry Twist cardi and treat it as a feature.

Tahiti in progress
ina_jean: (Default)
Back to the old yarn in the back of the wardrobe! I have three balls of yarn, one predominantly pink, the other two mainly white, with a random dark pink twist that knits up into a sort of 'Raspberry/Strawberry Ripple Icecream' effect. They were sold as 200g balls with a band giving a pattern for a very 80s sleeveless top.

Casual top yarn

(Don't you love the hairstyle?)

I used the first ball to make up a crochet shawl when I started yarn-working again a few years back.

When I was in Louth I bought an old Lister pattern for a summer cardigan in a mohair-type yarn called 'Tahiti' which appears to knit up to the same tension as the Ripple (11wpi)- so decided to make it my next project (I need a lightweight cardi).

Tahiti pattern

Lister Lee Pattern no. K1804: Lady's Cardigan in Lister-Lee Five Star Tahiti or Giselle or Tropicana

This is going to be as big a project as the cable cardi - so I am splitting it into separate posts.
ina_jean: (Default)
posted by [personal profile] ina_jean at 09:08am on 24/12/2015 under , ,
It turned out that making the armhole decreases is the most difficult thing when adapting a pattern for a different tension. I am probably going to have to do some serious fudging when it gets to knitting the sleeves. However, this is taken from my notes. (I am now on Side Two so am typing this up before I end up frogging and starting again!)

Knit in pattern to Row 90 (purl row - continue to do cables while making decreases).

Row 91: Cast off 5 stitches on side opposite pocket (ensure that the cables run up the centre front of the cardigan).

Rows 92 to 97 decrease one stitch on armhole side on each row (K2Tog) (41 stitches on needle)

Rows 99 to 121 Decrease one stitch on armhole side on alternate (purl) rows only.

From Row 103 decrease 1 stitch at centre front (other end from armhole) on every third row.

Continue decreases until only cable pattern stitches left on needle. Place these stitches on holder.

Knit Left Front as right reversing pattern. (ie. after ribbing, K12, p1, C4B,p1, K26, K1, C4B, P1, K2. Centre cable is C6F.)

I am currently on Row 91 of the left front. It is taking 2.25 balls per side, so I am not sure I will have enough for sleeves - hope I can source a couple more balls somewhere.
ina_jean: (Default)
The problem with buying discontinued yarn is finding patterns that will work with it. Fortunately Ravelry has a fairly comprehensive pattern library and I ran the Noro Kama weight and length through it and came up with a long cardigan pattern that would adapt.

First problem was that the pattern is longer than I wanted (not really difficult to cut down on length).

Problem two: the tension swatch knitted up much larger (16 stitches and 20 rows to 10cm rather than 18/24). I think I can solve this by making up a smaller size and, again, measuring as I go along.

What really threw me was the idea of doing a single cable across 12 stitches - not so much a cable as a hawser. I have just finished a sock pattern that used a very pleasing combination of three cables with different twists (two 4-stitch cables flanking a 6 stitch cable) that use the same number of stitches but will make a flatter fabric.

Also the pattern has pockets (yay!) which are not really a feature. So I decided to do the flanking 4CB twists on each side of the pocket and have the main cable emerging from it.

Making a rod for my own back, and I anticipate much frogging*, but at least it will keep me on my toes.

I did a lot of planning with squared paper and think that I have a plan worked out. Knitted the two pocket pieces with a 6-cable (one F and one B) running up the centre, flanked by 1 row of purl stitches.

CO 22 stitches. Knit 10 rows. Row 11, K7, P1, Cable over 6 stitches, P1, K7.
Follow main pattern for cable to Row 25.

Row 25: K2, M1, K2, M1, K2, M1, K1, P1, Cable, P1, K1, M1, K2, M1, K2, M1, K2 (28 stitches)

Ending at row 27 with 28 stitches on the needle (a knit row - pockets will be inserted on a purl row).

Have started one side (I am unsure whether it will turn out to be left or right - will worry about that when I get to the sleeve decreases!) by casting on 52 stitches and working 12 rows (rather than the pattern 18) of single ribbing.

Row 13: K2, P1 C4F, K26, P1, C4F, P1, K12 (52)
Row 14: P12, K1, P4,K1 P26, K1, P4, K1, P2
Row 15: K2, P1, K4 P1 K26, P1, K4, P1, K12
Row 16: As 14
Repeat these 4 rows to Row 35. At row 35 start top of pocket ribbing:
Row 35: K2, P1, K4, [P1 K1] Repeat 11 times (27 stitches) P1, K4, P1 K12
Row 36: P12 K1, P4, K1. Follow ribbing for 27 Stitches, K1, P4, K1, P2
Row 37: K3, P1 C4F, P1. Follow ribbing for 27 stitches], P1,C4F, P1, K12
Row 38: As Row 36
Row 39: Cast off for pocket as pattern.

*this has been edited as a result of the first frogging experience.

To Be continued...
Mood:: 'anxious' anxious
ina_jean: (Default)
posted by [personal profile] ina_jean at 03:23pm on 24/01/2015 under , ,
I bought a couple of patterns for 'dragonscale' crochet at WAWS with the intention (once I've mastered the stitch) of eventually doing a dragonscale coat for Draco (and possibly some boot-toppers for me).

I have a fine variegated sock yarn (Cascade Yarns: Heritage Paints colour 9809 which is green and blue (I hate the way that Ravelry's database doesn't seem to show that actual colours of yarns, though it asks for them, just the reference numbers - have started to add the colour as a 'note' in self defence).

But I digress. As the yarn does not mat ch the pattern tension I did a tension square with a 2.5mm hook (rather than the 3.5 of the pattern) and it worked up pretty much to 4in over the charted number of stitches. In any case it's the sort of pattern where you can measure it against your hand as you work. I have never beieved in slavishly following a pattern if it's obviously not going to fit.

The smaller hook makes it more fiddly and the scales tend to curl up - I may have to frog and readajust either the number of trebles to a scale or the length of the V stitch (double trebles instead of trebles). But it's a very forgiving pattern. More later.


27 28