ina_jean: (Default)
2017-06-21 05:33 pm
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Lacy Chennille Shrug

This is more of the Coldspring yarn that was originally intended for machine knitting - and if the machine wasn't in store (and I had space to put it) I would probably have frogged this and started again by machine.

The test square knitted up well and this is a rare variegated yarn (like the one used for Mia's coat) that doesn't come out in stripes; a feature of 1980s yarn that appears to have been lost. These particular colours are evocative of a Scottish moorland blue sky, purple heather, brown earth the tawny coat of a deer and despite this being intended as a summer shrug the colours and fabric work better as an autumn evening shoulder-warmer.

I ended up frogging the first attempt at a very lacy pattern as it is difficult to keep track with this yarn. The simple pattern of the blue shrug seemed easier to keep track of.

The back knitted up well - I shortened it by 10cm as the original seems a bit long for a shrug. It took 86 rows to the 30cm point where I started the shoulder inset and another 20cm to the top. All in simple stocking stitch.

For the Left Front I decided to curve the edge more than shown in the pattern - this meant charting the first 20 rows. The pattern asks you to make stitches on both knit and purl rows at the start. I tried this but the yarn does not lend itself to lifting new stitches into place, especially on consecutive rows. I eventually frogged back to the hem and did the extra stitch by YO on knit rows only. And because placing a marker on YO stitches is almost impossible by the 10th row I had decided to count the pattern stitches (20) every time and do the YO just before the pattern. This seems to be working thus far. The lace pattern is rather overwhelmed by the yarn fuzz but it does have a nice shape and texture. I continue in the hope that it will all come right in the end...
ina_jean: (Default)
2017-02-24 05:41 am
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Red Mohair Top

This is another result of a visit to Coldspring Mills in Keighley when we stayed with Pamela sometime in the 1990s. 600 grammes of unbranded DK mohair in varigated red, pink and grey for £6. I also purchased the pattern (now lost) and the necessary needles - a pair of 12mm mm and 4.5mm. All of this was, presumably, knitted up during our visit and left to finish off when I got home. It has been in the top of Susan's wardrobe ever since and came to light on Wednesday.

The pattern is knitted all in one as a cross shape with a hole in the centre for the head, then sewn up to make a simple top. Ths technique is usually used for baby clothes, and coping wth the huge mass of fabric produced you can see why it's not often recommended for adults.

It's knitted in plain garter stitch, using one 12mm needle and one 4.5mm needle which produces a lacey striped effect. It's surprisngly easy as the large needle makes for very large loops into which to insert the smaller needle, and the yarn remains loose to pick up with the large needle on the next row.

I had stopped 20 rows from the end, leaving 60 stitches on the large needle. I completed those, then added an extra stitch every 4 stitches to make the total of 80 which matched the hem on the other side. Did 12 rows of 1x1 hem and finished off.

Sewed up the sides and picked up 40 stitches round the sleeves to knit a 6 row 1x1 cuff in the round. Same the other side, then picked up stitches round the neck hole for another 6 row 1x1 edging.

So that's the top that has taken me 20 years to knit! There is a hank of the wool left which will go into the stash for future use.
ina_jean: (Default)
2017-02-13 03:20 pm
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Susan's Self Fair-Isle Boot Socks

I bought this yarn on a whim intending to see whether the 'magic' part worked (it does).

Then Susan's birthday came along and she suggested that I knit a pair of boot socks so this semed the ideal oportunity to use the yarn (as she is allergic to wool and this is wholly acrylic).

I knitted up a tension square on 3.5mm needles which came out at 20 stitches and 28 rows to a 4" square. Then set about finding a sock pattern to fit that tension. Ravelry was down so I resorted to my 'bible' – the DK 'Big Book of Knitting' (local charity shop purchase) from which I have already made a pair of boot socks and numerous gloves. I was surprised to find that the tension matches the self-striped socks designed to be knitted in a Noro silk 'sock' yarn (in my experience sock yarns do not usually come in aran weights, but that was what it said.)

In order to make sure the socks match I started the pattern where the coloured section of yarn finished.

As these were intended to be boot socks, and Susan has very thick calves I deemed it best to do some measurements first. Her calf measures 42cm which worked out at 80 stitches rather than the 40 required by the pattern. So I cast on 80 stitches (using knit double cast on rather than the long tail which I really should have used – but am too impatient to fiddle about with) to the 3.5m straight needles and knitted 9 rows of standard 2x2 ribbing.

Then reduced the number of stitches by purling together on the wrong side (so that the pattern looked the same on the right side) thus:

Row 10 (rs): K2, P2tog,*[K2, P2 three times] K2, P2tog. Repeat from * to end of row
Row 11 (ws): Follow previous row pattern
Row 12: K2, P1, K2, P2tog,*[K2, P2 twice] K2, P1, K2, P2tog. Repeat from * to end of row
Row 13: (ws): Follow previous row pattern
Row 14: *K2, P1, K2, P1, K2 P2tog, K2 P1. Repeat from * to end of row
Row 15: (ws): Follow previous row pattern
Row 16: K2, P1 to end
Row 17: P2, K1 to end (60 stitches)
Row 18: Knit all stitches from straight 3.5mm needles to DPN 4.0mm needles (or 4.0mm circular needle.) Join into circle and sew up edges.

Note: I usually start knitting in the round by doing a few rows on straight needles – it saves having to keep frogging back because you've got the work twisted. In this case it made it much easier to keep track of the stitch reductions.

Over the next few rows reduce the number of stitches on the needles by sskpo every 8 stitches on first row, every six stitches 3rd row, every 5 stitches 6th row until there are 40 stitches on the needles. Continue until work measures 23cm or so. Then divide stitches on needles and follow pattern.
ina_jean: (Default)
2016-10-16 02:57 pm
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A House for John (Part 1 - Walls)

After posting the pictures of Draco's Wall to Facebook I got a comment from John asking whether I could knit a house for him. Not being one to back down from a challenge (especially if it is a silly one), I had a look through my craft magazines and found two patterns for houses, a crochet one for a Halloween House designed to hold sweet treats and a knitted 'beach hut' stuffed cushion/doorstop. I decided to go with the knitted one - with adaptations.

I have the brown and yellow DK left over from Draco's antler hat, and various other balls of DK in the stash - though I will have to buy more in red for the roof - since I need red for Draco's Flaming Tyre (TM) I will pop out and buy some.

The pattern is in separate parts, 4 walls, floor and roof, all joined by sewing together and stuffing. I started knitting the side walls (40 stitches on 3.25mm circular needles) in stripes of two rows yellow and two rows brown. After the designated 67 rows I put in a row of lace holes and dropped the yellow knitting the base in brown only for 30 rows, then another row of lace holes, cast back on the yellow and continued with the second wall.

For the sides I used a crochet hook to cast on 26 stitches along one side of the base, picked up the stitches on the needles and continued in pattern until the side matched the main wall. Then knitted four rows (two of pattern, plus two extra) in yellow and decreased one stitch at each end of every right side row until left with three stitches - K2 tog twice and finish. Did the same for the other side wall.

Am now about to work out how to do the doors and windows and the roof.
ina_jean: (Default)
2016-08-18 07:00 am
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Draco's Agility Wall

When I joined the Agility Knitters group on Facebook I decided to actually knit an agility fence. I used a picture of a 'brick wall rug' from a book on knitting rugs as a basis but didn't think it worth spending any more money than I had to on actually buying a book for one pattern for a silly project.

The local Pound Shop (on Manford Way) has a good selection of cheap acrylic yarns, so I bought a ball of King Cole Super Chunky each in dark red (wine) bright red, orange (Mango) and grey (for the mortar rows). I needed an extra ball of a 'brick' colour so ordered a light brown (Sahara) from Wool Warehouse - whole lot came to about £10.

I wanted a chance to try out the size 6mm 'Symphonie' straight needles Frankie gave me as a Christmas present so cast on 30 stitches of the wine and knitted in moss stitch until the work was 'brick-sized' which turned out to be 13 rows. I threaded those onto a circular needle (with a 1m cable) and knitted three more in mango and red, finishing with a half-brick (15 stitches 13 rows)in wine. That gave me five separate pieces of knitting on the circular needle.

At this point I abandoned the straight needles and used the circular for the rest of the work. *Cast on with the grey and knitted the first 30 stitches of the first brick, Then made a stitch and used a 5mm crochet hook to crochet down the side of the brick, left a 4" loop (7" of yarn) at the bottom and crocheted up the side of the next brick. Looped the yarn back over the needle, then took a darning needle and (using a spare bit of DK yarn as a holder) threaded the loose loop through both sides of the crochet stitches to pull the two together. put the final bit of the loop over the rh needle, then picked up the stitch from the lh needle and continued in knit along the top of the second brick. Repeat process until the end of the row.

(I could have cast on a short length of grey and knitted the bricks together using fair isle technique - but there were going to be enough ends to sew in already without adding more!)

Wall in progress
Front and back of complete work before adding backing fabric.

Knit four rows of 'mortar' ending with yarn at same end as the start.

Cast on a contrast colour to the brick below and knit a second brick (or half-brick). Put the three 'mortar' stitches onto a holding thread or needle, and knit next brick in different colour. Continue to end then repeat from * above.

Make sure the crochet stitches are done on the front of the work and the grey mortar rows always begin at the same side of the work (it doesn't matter which end you start knitting the bricks from - the delights of circular needles!).

Stop when the work measures 4" shorter than the required fence height. (Five courses of bricks equal the 'small' KC height.) Complete the last line of 'mortar' then continue in garter stitch to make a 'coping' which will form the channel to put the bar of the fence through.

You could simply sew the top stitching back on itself, but I am sewing the whole thing to a backing fabric for extra strength - and to prevent too much stretching in the wash.)

Final version held on a broomstick (actually a Vileda mop handle!) on my jump wings.
Knit Jump edit 1
ina_jean: (Default)
2016-07-18 04:42 pm
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Handkerchief Cardi 3 (Left front and cuffs)

Aaargh!

It turned out that while doing the YO increases before the red texture front was fine going from SS to texture, doing it the other way, from red texture to black SS either meant that the black crept diagonally into the red, or the two sections fell apart. After several attempts I gave up and did the join by slip stitching the yarn, and added the increases at the end of each row. Since the fall of the front covers the join I think it looks OK.

And I didn't have quite enough red to do both cuffs to two inches so instead of doing the cuffs separately as in the pattern (which is done like that for good reason), I sewed up the seams and put 60 stitches round the cuffs with double pointed needles, did an inch in black and finished with half of what was left of the red on each side - which worked out at about an inch of red textured cuff.

It's a lovely little bolero/cardi, which will get a lot of use in autumn. Though I am a bit disappointed that I didn't meet my objective of following a pattern exactly using the correct yarn and needles.
ina_jean: (Default)
2016-06-05 05:09 pm
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Handkerchief Cardi 2 (Right Front)

I finished the back over our holiday - I was right about it being easy but boring.

Have just started on the right front which is much more interesting! I'm using 2 colours - black for the plain knitting and red for the pattern. I did wonder how the join was going to work, since the increases are done in the middle of the front by yarn over loops. In the event it turned out that using two colours makes it easier to keep track of the pattern. Make the YO with the black yarn on the RS, then knit it in with the red yarn on the WS. This means that all the k1/p1 texture stitches are made in red yarn - you don't have to remember to add an extra knit stitch on every second row. I am, nevertheless, counting obsessively and making notes.

In other knitting news, I stumbled across a charity shop while on holiday that had a huge collection of second-hand needles - some of which would have been useful, but I didn't have my note of what I've got. I did buy a second stitch counter though.
ina_jean: (Default)
2016-05-21 11:50 am
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Handkerchief Cardi (Forest Fern 1)

I have put the Tahiti cardi on hold as it's not something I can safely knit while doing anything else. I do need a lightweight cardi though, and liked the pattern for 'Forest Fern' in the 100 knitting patterns 'free' book that came with last month's edition of 'Lets Knit' (100 patterns and a magazine for £6 - bargain!).

I happen to have both yarn alternatives given in the pattern in my stash - the black and red 'Moods' bought to make the 'riot' skirt but too bulky for the job, and some Sirdar 'Country Style' in a shade of yellow-green almost as vile as the colour used in the pattern illustration. I decided to make the pattern using the red (1 ball) for the detail work on hem cuffs and collar and the black to the back and sleeves. This will mean a bit of fiddling on the fronts, but hopefully not as much as the Tahiti! Meanwhile knitting up the back is quite straightforward, and rather restful.

I think this is the first thing I've knitted (or attempted to knit) that I've not had to make some change to needles,yarn or pattern!
ina_jean: (Default)
2016-05-19 02:58 pm
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Tahiti Cardigan (2. Starting out)

I decided to knit the body in one piece on a circular needle (I keep calling then 'cable needles', because they are long cables - forgetting that a cable needle is something quite other - forgive me.)

The pattern's largest size gives 90 stitches for the back and 42 for each front - a total of 172, which was what I started with, but worked up a bit short for my 40" waist - so I am now working with 198 - and will be plying the tape measure as I go!

Cast on with the pink yarn and knit 15 rows (2.5") of 1x1 ribbing on 3.50mm needles.

Change to white yarn and 4.5mm needles (I love Knitpro needles, you just unscrew the smaller needles and screw on the larger ones). Mark off 21 stitches in first section, then 20 stitch groups to end - this is essential in keeping track of the pattern which is a four-stitch repeat - so you know within 4 repeats if you've gone wrong.

I ended up frogging the first three rows four times before getting the hang of the pattern - in future I'll knit up the tension square in pattern to get the rhythm right. In fact it's quite simple. K1 at start of row, then K2, Yarn over needle, slip one, knit one, pass slipped stitch over. Repeat to end then K1 to finish, turn. P1, P2, Yarn over needle, p two together. Repeat to end, p1. After the first two rows the second stitch of each 4-stitch repeat will be made into the yarn over loop - if not you've gone wrong!

After a few inches the work started to slope alarmingly to the left. I assumed this was my error in the early rows, and frogged back to the ribbing to start again,, but it seems that the slope is a result of psso on the knit rows but knitting two together on the purl ones (slipping a stitch slopes the work left - K2tog doesn't compensate with a right hand slope. So I am experimenting with slipping on both the knit and purl rows - do not want to frog back again.

If not I shall call it my 'Raspberry Twist cardi and treat it as a feature.

Tahiti in progress
ina_jean: (Default)
2016-05-19 02:37 pm
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Raspberry Ripple (Tahiti) Cardigan (1 - Yarn and Pattern)

Back to the old yarn in the back of the wardrobe! I have three balls of yarn, one predominantly pink, the other two mainly white, with a random dark pink twist that knits up into a sort of 'Raspberry/Strawberry Ripple Icecream' effect. They were sold as 200g balls with a band giving a pattern for a very 80s sleeveless top.

Casual top yarn

(Don't you love the hairstyle?)

I used the first ball to make up a crochet shawl when I started yarn-working again a few years back.

When I was in Louth I bought an old Lister pattern for a summer cardigan in a mohair-type yarn called 'Tahiti' which appears to knit up to the same tension as the Ripple (11wpi)- so decided to make it my next project (I need a lightweight cardi).

Tahiti pattern

Lister Lee Pattern no. K1804: Lady's Cardigan in Lister-Lee Five Star Tahiti or Giselle or Tropicana

This is going to be as big a project as the cable cardi - so I am splitting it into separate posts.
ina_jean: (Default)
2016-05-12 02:44 pm
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Best Laid Plans...

When I was making Draco's green coat (in Drops Big Fabel Aran weight) I re-ordered some extra yarn in the same colour but made a mistake and got Drops Fabel instead - which is a very fine fingering designed for socks. I've also impulse bought some very fine yarn called 'Riot' in a shade of mixed red and brown called 'Volcano' which I'd sort of earmarked for a throat-warmer.

The circular short-row skirt I made up in some found laceweight yarn is actually designed for Drops Fabel. As it was so successful I decided to make up a version in the fine 'Riot' and looked for a plain black and a red in the same weight and mix (70%acrylic 30%wool) Despite being so fine Riot is listed as 'dk' but there is no plain colourway so I ordered some King Cole Moods in those colours to complement it.

I also ordered some plain green to go with the Fabel to make up into a top.

It all arrived yesterday and the black and red are much heavier than the 'riot' so I shall have to re-think that. On the other hand the Fabel is the right yarn for a skirt - and the Moods is the right yarn for the top I was going to use the Fabel for - so I have decided to swap them. Sill have no idea what to do with the Riot though :(
ina_jean: (Default)
2016-05-05 02:56 pm
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Bren's Tennis Ball Holder

Ever since I saw the animal-themed 'Break Time Apple Cosies' in Crochet Gifts #3 I thought it would make a great way of keeping a tennis ball handy when out walking the dogs.

I got a set of yarn intended for making cute farmyard animals from the latest issue of Lets Knit (bought for the 100 patterns free book) which gave me the colours I needed. Any washable acrylic DK yarn would do.

Using a 3.5mm hook and brown yarn, make 2ch and join to make ring.

1. 6dc into ring (6)
2. 2dc into each dc round (12)
3. 1dc, 2dc into next stitch x6 (18)
4. 2dc, 2dc into next stitch x6 (24)
5. 3dc, 2dc into next stitch x6 (30)
6. 4 dc, 2dc into next stitch x6 (36)
7 to 11. 36 dc round (NB If tube is not wide enough to take ball, dc 2 into every 6th stitch on Row 8 (40))
12. Change to white yarn. 1ch, dc round. Turn.
13. 1ch, dc round (NB,, if you made an increase at Row 8 now do decrease (ch2tog) at same point) (36)
14. 1ch, *4dc, 1dc2tog, rept from * to end, turn (30)
15 to 17 1ch, 30 dc turn.
18. 1ch, 30dc, 20ch, ss into first ch of fastening then dc all round opening. Fasten off and break yarn. Sew in end.

Ears (make 2)

On UK size 11 needles (I think this is 3.5 again bus can't be arsed to check) cast on 10 stitches in brown yarn. Knit 6 rows ss ending on p row. Make pointed shape as follows:
7. s1, k1, psso, k6, k2tog
8. p8
9. s1, k1, psso, k4, k2tog
10. p6
11. s1, k1, psso, k2, k2tog
12. p4
13. k2tog x2
14 p2
15 K2tog, cast off and secure thread.

Nose.

With scrap black yarn (I knew there was some somewhere), work first three rows of main body to make a circle. Leave long tail to sew into place.

Making up,

Button (see note on black yarn - a white one would be good. Or a brown one): Sew onto opposite side of the loop, positioning so ball will be held safely inside.

Sew ears on either side at point where brown yarn meets white. Check that ear tips hang forward.

Sew nose between inside edges of ears and slightly below. Use longtail to make mouth. Try not to make it look like a teddy bear (the pointy ears help)

Sew eyes on the same row of crochet above nose and below eyes.

Push small carabiner or keyring fastening through base of the opening to hang.

Take photo and post to Ravelry.
Bren likes his ball
ina_jean: (Default)
2016-03-05 09:04 am
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Dance With Me Skirt

Sometime in the late 1990s I bought a knitting machine and stocked up on a lot of lightweight yarn, mostly purchased at Coldspring Mills in (then) Keighley, to use with it. I ran up a lightweight top for Susan, and then we moved house and the machine went into store (I am not at all sure I still have all the parts and should probably send it to the tip). The remaining yarn went into the top of my wardrobe.

A couple of years ago I took two big packs of yarn down to the boot sale and assumed that was the end of it.

When I started on this hand knitting thing I found a Coldspring bag at the back of my wardrobe with a half-finished skirt (two panels) in it and some odd unlabelled laceweight slub yarn. I considered using the already knitted bits to make a new top, but hand-knitting doesn't work the same as machine, so I frogged the pieces and looked for a skirt pattern to use the same yarn and found 'Dance With Me', A lovely gored skirt in two colours (actually a dress, but I don't have to make the bodice).

The unnamed yarn (I suspect from Lister but long discontinued) knitted up to the correct tension so I have started on the pattern

It says to cast on over two needles - and then withdraw one to make a looser cast on. Since I have never used a hand-cast (tried it once and it really was too tight) I just used a large straight needle to cast on to the circular one. I have roughly the same amount of brown yarn and pink-and-white yarn so rather than follow the pattern colours I am using the pink for the plain knitting and the brown for the short-row gores. I am also working all the pattern from the waist so that I can knit both yarns together at the top and avoid having to break where the colours change (this means working one row of brown from top to bottom to work the first half of the gore.

After the fiddling of the cable cardi it's a relief to have to do nothing nut plain knitting (though I am making occasional gloves to break the monotony).

Test piece. laceweight yarn 1
ina_jean: (Default)
2016-01-30 11:13 am
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Double Cable Cardigan 4 (Sleeve Dilemma)

I finished the back and sewed the body pieces together. Then thought about the sleeves.

There is a way of working sleeves directly into the armholes, but I couldn't find any reliable advice on t'internets. Had a go at starting the cuffs 'in the round' but the increases defeated me. So went back to working from the cuffs up in the traditional way (incidentally why are sleeves worked from the bottom? It means you can't adjust the length if (like me) you're running out of wool.

I misread the increases at the start and had to frog back to the ribbing. I am now at the two-thirds stage and only have one ball of wool left. My supplier seems to have run out of this colour (though they do have a matching colour that would do for the trimmings - which I must order!)

Current plan is to finish the sleeve I'm working on and check that it fits. Then I need to unravel from the cuff up to have enough original yarn to finish the other sleeve. Will then buy three balls of the contrast yarn to finish the new cuffs and trim.

I hope it's worth it.
ina_jean: (Default)
2016-01-16 07:40 am
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Casting On

I'm about to start a new project (a skirt - more later) and it starts with the instruction to 'Loosely cast on 140 stitches on 2 circular needles. Pull out one of the needles and continue to work as below.'

I was momentarily baffled, and then realised that this is an instruction to use a 'finger cast on' in which the yarn is wound round the fingers and slipped onto the needles and then pulled tight.

I was taught two casting on methods by my mother - both of which use two needles, transferring the knitted loop back onto the left hand needle. It was only when reading a letter in a knitting magazine, asking 'how do you do a needle cast on?' that I realised my method is either (a) too British or (b) too old-fashioned, to be considered normal in the 21st century.

I did get hold of an instruction book and tried doing a finger cast on - the resultant stitches were far too tight for me to carry on knitting so I undid them and re-cast with needles.

Which explains the instruction to cast on over two needles and then pull one out. Which requires you to have two circular needles of the same gauge and length - which seems like overkill to me (also v expensive). In the event I used a straight needle to cast on to the circular one - giving a lovely loose row of stitches on which to start the work.

Weirdly the instruction then required me to use a different colour to knit the first 12 rows. This is going to be an interesting knit.
ina_jean: (Default)
2015-12-24 09:08 am
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Double Cable Cardigan 3 (Front armcise)

It turned out that making the armhole decreases is the most difficult thing when adapting a pattern for a different tension. I am probably going to have to do some serious fudging when it gets to knitting the sleeves. However, this is taken from my notes. (I am now on Side Two so am typing this up before I end up frogging and starting again!)

Knit in pattern to Row 90 (purl row - continue to do cables while making decreases).

Row 91: Cast off 5 stitches on side opposite pocket (ensure that the cables run up the centre front of the cardigan).

Rows 92 to 97 decrease one stitch on armhole side on each row (K2Tog) (41 stitches on needle)

Rows 99 to 121 Decrease one stitch on armhole side on alternate (purl) rows only.

From Row 103 decrease 1 stitch at centre front (other end from armhole) on every third row.

Continue decreases until only cable pattern stitches left on needle. Place these stitches on holder.

Knit Left Front as right reversing pattern. (ie. after ribbing, K12, p1, C4B,p1, K26, K1, C4B, P1, K2. Centre cable is C6F.)

I am currently on Row 91 of the left front. It is taking 2.25 balls per side, so I am not sure I will have enough for sleeves - hope I can source a couple more balls somewhere.
ina_jean: (Default)
2015-12-07 07:29 am
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Double Cable Cardigan - 2 (Front cable cont.)

I re-knitted the pockets, adding a line of purl stitches up either side of the 6-row cable and put the stitches on a circular needle rather than a stitch holder to facilitate transfer to the pocket gap.

I have charted the pattern and and am mostly relying on that - but also recording actual stitches.

Row 39: Work 8 stitches in pattern. Cast off 28 stitches. Work in pattern to end.

Row 40: Transfer pocket stitches onto needle between the two lots of front stitches. Purl (in pattern) across all 52 stitches.

It helps to pin (or actually sew) the pocket in place at this point to keep the work in one piece. The next row sets up the cables to meet - Note second cable is worked with needle to back instead of front for the next 7 rows. Reduce number of stitches between cables each row by one each side of main cable.

Row 41: K3, P1, C4F, P1, K8, P1, C6B, P1, K8, P1, C4B, P1, K13.
Row 42: P14, K1, P4, K1, P7, K1, P6, K1, P7, K1, P4, K1 P4
Row 43: K5, P1, C4F, P1, K6, P1, K6, P1, K6, P1, C4B, P1, K15.
Row 44: P16, K1, P4, K1, P5, K1, P6, K1, P5, K1, P4, K1 P6.
Row 45: K7, P1, C4F, P1, K4, P1, K6, P1, K4, P1, C4B, P1, K17.
Row 46: P18, K1, P4, K1, P3, K1, P6, K1, P3, K1, P4, K1 P8.
Row 47: K9, P1, C4F, P1, K2, P1, C6B, P1, K2, P1, C4B, P1, K19.
Row 48: P20, K1, P4, K2, P6, K2, P4, K1 P10.
Row 49 (resets pattern as centre cable group): K11 P1, C4F, P2, K6, P2 C4F, P1, K20.

Row 50 (And all subsequent purl rows): P20, K1, P4, K2, P6, K2, P4, K1, P12

Work from pattern making side cable every 4 rows and centre cable every 6 rows.

Row 51 Knit across all cables
Row 53 Make all three cables
Row 55 Knit across all cables
Row 57 Make side cables, knit across centre cable

In the next post I'll be talking (hopefully) about sleeve decreases...
ina_jean: (Default)
2015-12-05 08:10 am
Entry tags:

Double Cable Cardigan : 1 Pockets and front

The problem with buying discontinued yarn is finding patterns that will work with it. Fortunately Ravelry has a fairly comprehensive pattern library and I ran the Noro Kama weight and length through it and came up with a long cardigan pattern that would adapt.

First problem was that the pattern is longer than I wanted (not really difficult to cut down on length).

Problem two: the tension swatch knitted up much larger (16 stitches and 20 rows to 10cm rather than 18/24). I think I can solve this by making up a smaller size and, again, measuring as I go along.

What really threw me was the idea of doing a single cable across 12 stitches - not so much a cable as a hawser. I have just finished a sock pattern that used a very pleasing combination of three cables with different twists (two 4-stitch cables flanking a 6 stitch cable) that use the same number of stitches but will make a flatter fabric.

Also the pattern has pockets (yay!) which are not really a feature. So I decided to do the flanking 4CB twists on each side of the pocket and have the main cable emerging from it.

Making a rod for my own back, and I anticipate much frogging*, but at least it will keep me on my toes.

I did a lot of planning with squared paper and think that I have a plan worked out. Knitted the two pocket pieces with a 6-cable (one F and one B) running up the centre, flanked by 1 row of purl stitches.

CO 22 stitches. Knit 10 rows. Row 11, K7, P1, Cable over 6 stitches, P1, K7.
Follow main pattern for cable to Row 25.

Row 25: K2, M1, K2, M1, K2, M1, K1, P1, Cable, P1, K1, M1, K2, M1, K2, M1, K2 (28 stitches)

Ending at row 27 with 28 stitches on the needle (a knit row - pockets will be inserted on a purl row).

Have started one side (I am unsure whether it will turn out to be left or right - will worry about that when I get to the sleeve decreases!) by casting on 52 stitches and working 12 rows (rather than the pattern 18) of single ribbing.

Row 13: K2, P1 C4F, K26, P1, C4F, P1, K12 (52)
Row 14: P12, K1, P4,K1 P26, K1, P4, K1, P2
Row 15: K2, P1, K4 P1 K26, P1, K4, P1, K12
Row 16: As 14
Repeat these 4 rows to Row 35. At row 35 start top of pocket ribbing:
Row 35: K2, P1, K4, [P1 K1] Repeat 11 times (27 stitches) P1, K4, P1 K12
Row 36: P12 K1, P4, K1. Follow ribbing for 27 Stitches, K1, P4, K1, P2
Row 37: K3, P1 C4F, P1. Follow ribbing for 27 stitches], P1,C4F, P1, K12
Row 38: As Row 36
Row 39: Cast off for pocket as pattern.

*this has been edited as a result of the first frogging experience.

To Be continued...
ina_jean: (Default)
2015-11-26 08:05 am
Entry tags:

Welly-Boot Socks

Another raid on The Big Book Of Knitting. Since the gloves worked so well, and this pattern is also knitted on straight needles, I went down to the pound shop and browsed back two balls of acrylic bulky yarn to have a go at replacing my sad and sorry boot liners.

The decreases in the ribbing to reduce bulk were interesting - one needs to keep a very close eye on row counts and stitch numbers - I have now dedicated a note book entirely to this purpose.

I followed the instructions for the heel and the toe exactly and was surprised when they worked out. Though the heel needed an extra bit of sewing in at the end as I'd not been able to pick up all the stitches on my over-large stitch holders (I now have a smaller one).

The cable pattern is lovely and I intend to use it for a cardigan - but I really prefer to use a chart as the repeat was quite complicated to follow in text (it's two 'right twisted' four-stitch cables with a four row repeat flanking one 'left twisted' six stitch cable with a six row repeat).

The socks are designed for tall boots and I have to fold down the tops for my short ones - best done by folding inside rather than outside. Definitely a success though.
ina_jean: (Default)
2015-11-26 07:54 am
Entry tags:

Gloves

Apart from baby clothes there are two things that the yarn-working books are full of and it's gloves/mittens and socks. Both are terrifying, but I needed a new pair of gloves and the pattern in the 'Big Book Of Knitting' was marked as 'moderate' for difficulty and only used straight needles, so I cast on the latest batch of discount DK (in a vile greeny-sick colour - I have two lots of similar colour yarn and can't think what came over me),, and had a go.

And it was amazingly simple. What's more I could try the pattern against my hands as I worked and add length where needed (on the fingers and between the fingers and thumb). For the record it needed two rows added for each.

The pattern also required you to break the yarn at the top of each finger and use the remaining length to sew down the side seam then re-join yarn at the base of the fingers. Not wanting to have to sew in loads of ends (especially where fingers meet palm, I could forsee uncomfortable lumps forming - on me and the gloves) I elected to use a crochet hook to make the seam without having to break the yarn. This also gave me the means to crochet in the additional two stitches needed at the base of each finger without leaving a hole. It all worked splendidly and I have made another pair for Susan (this time experimenting with knitting the cuffs in the round - though not terribly successfully.

Pics and details on Ravelry.