ina_jean: (Default)
2017-08-27 10:00 pm
Entry tags:

Cosy Cream Cowl

I have been buying Let's Knit magazine occasionally as it has good simple patterns for basic clothes. The September 2017 issue (122) has a pattern for a neckwarmer cowl, an accessory that I much prefer to scarves which tend to bunch up under clothes or fall off at odd moments when dealing with the dogs.

It's knited in a DK yarn, and I have a pack of four 50g balls of King Cole Merino Blend DK Superwash wool that I acquired in a sale (not sure where) for £8 (reduced from £15) which is branded as 'Anti-Tickle' – perfect for a neckwarmer.

The original pattern is knitted as an even strip, with the ends joined and a cord run through to gather up the excess round the collar and finished with two huge bobbles. This rather defeats the objective of not having a lot of mess around the neck!

I therefore decided to knit the thing in the round, reducing the row count as it gets higher and finishing with a proper ribbed rollneck. There is a basic pattern repeat of 12 six-stitch cables interspersed with 2x2 ribbing which makes doing the reductions at each pattern change fairly simple (given enough graph paper!)


Using a 72cm circular needle with 4mm points, cast on 240 stitches. Join ends taking care not to twist work (NB I worked two rows straight and joined when I was sure there was no twist, used a long end to sew up the 2 row ends). Place marker at join.

Rows 1-8 *k2, p2 Repeat from * (2x2 rib)

Row 9 (set pattern A) *p2, k6, p2, k2, p2, k2 p2, k2 repeat from * to end

Row 10: As row 9

Row 11 (make cable) *p2, C6F, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2 repeat from * to end

Rows 12-15 As row 9

Row 16 (Set pattern B) Move marker to beginning of cable. *C6F, p1, p2tog, C2F, C2B, C2F, C2B, p2tog, p1, repeat from * to marker (228 stitches on needle)

Row 17: *k6, p3,k2, p2, k2, p3, repeat from * to marker

Rows 18-20 as Row 17.

Row 21 (Set Pattern C - NB, this is where I depart from the original pattern) *C6F, p1, p2tog, C2F, C2B, C2F, p2tog, p1 repeat from * to marker (204 stitches on needle)

Row 22: *k6, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1 repeat from * to marker

Rows 25-25 as Row 21

Row 26: *C6F, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1 repeat from * to marker

Rows 27-28 as Row 21.

Row 29 (Set Pattern D) *k6, p1, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, k2tog, p. repeat from * to marker (180 stitches on needle)

Row 30 *k6, p2, C4B, p2, repeat from * to marker

Row 31 (large cable) *C6F, p2, k4, p2, repeat from * to marker

Row 34 *k6, p2, C4B, p2 repeat from * to marker

Continue pattern making cables every 6th row until work measures 27cm.
ina_jean: (Default)
2017-06-21 05:33 pm
Entry tags:

Lacy Chennille Shrug

This is more of the Coldspring yarn that was originally intended for machine knitting - and if the machine wasn't in store (and I had space to put it) I would probably have frogged this and started again by machine.

The test square knitted up well and this is a rare variegated yarn (like the one used for Mia's coat) that doesn't come out in stripes; a feature of 1980s yarn that appears to have been lost. These particular colours are evocative of a Scottish moorland blue sky, purple heather, brown earth the tawny coat of a deer and despite this being intended as a summer shrug the colours and fabric work better as an autumn evening shoulder-warmer.

I ended up frogging the first attempt at a very lacy pattern as it is difficult to keep track with this yarn. The simple pattern of the blue shrug seemed easier to keep track of.

The back knitted up well - I shortened it by 10cm as the original seems a bit long for a shrug. It took 86 rows to the 30cm point where I started the shoulder inset and another 20cm to the top. All in simple stocking stitch.

For the Left Front I decided to curve the edge more than shown in the pattern - this meant charting the first 20 rows. The pattern asks you to make stitches on both knit and purl rows at the start. I tried this but the yarn does not lend itself to lifting new stitches into place, especially on consecutive rows. I eventually frogged back to the hem and did the extra stitch by YO on knit rows only. And because placing a marker on YO stitches is almost impossible by the 10th row I had decided to count the pattern stitches (20) every time and do the YO just before the pattern. This seems to be working thus far. The lace pattern is rather overwhelmed by the yarn fuzz but it does have a nice shape and texture. I continue in the hope that it will all come right in the end...
ina_jean: (Default)
2017-02-24 05:41 am
Entry tags:

Red Mohair Top

This is another result of a visit to Coldspring Mills in Keighley when we stayed with Pamela sometime in the 1990s. 600 grammes of unbranded DK mohair in varigated red, pink and grey for £6. I also purchased the pattern (now lost) and the necessary needles - a pair of 12mm mm and 4.5mm. All of this was, presumably, knitted up during our visit and left to finish off when I got home. It has been in the top of Susan's wardrobe ever since and came to light on Wednesday.

The pattern is knitted all in one as a cross shape with a hole in the centre for the head, then sewn up to make a simple top. Ths technique is usually used for baby clothes, and coping wth the huge mass of fabric produced you can see why it's not often recommended for adults.

It's knitted in plain garter stitch, using one 12mm needle and one 4.5mm needle which produces a lacey striped effect. It's surprisngly easy as the large needle makes for very large loops into which to insert the smaller needle, and the yarn remains loose to pick up with the large needle on the next row.

I had stopped 20 rows from the end, leaving 60 stitches on the large needle. I completed those, then added an extra stitch every 4 stitches to make the total of 80 which matched the hem on the other side. Did 12 rows of 1x1 hem and finished off.

Sewed up the sides and picked up 40 stitches round the sleeves to knit a 6 row 1x1 cuff in the round. Same the other side, then picked up stitches round the neck hole for another 6 row 1x1 edging.

So that's the top that has taken me 20 years to knit! There is a hank of the wool left which will go into the stash for future use.
ina_jean: (Default)
2017-02-13 03:20 pm
Entry tags:

Susan's Self Fair-Isle Boot Socks

I bought this yarn on a whim intending to see whether the 'magic' part worked (it does).

Then Susan's birthday came along and she suggested that I knit a pair of boot socks so this semed the ideal oportunity to use the yarn (as she is allergic to wool and this is wholly acrylic).

I knitted up a tension square on 3.5mm needles which came out at 20 stitches and 28 rows to a 4" square. Then set about finding a sock pattern to fit that tension. Ravelry was down so I resorted to my 'bible' – the DK 'Big Book of Knitting' (local charity shop purchase) from which I have already made a pair of boot socks and numerous gloves. I was surprised to find that the tension matches the self-striped socks designed to be knitted in a Noro silk 'sock' yarn (in my experience sock yarns do not usually come in aran weights, but that was what it said.)

In order to make sure the socks match I started the pattern where the coloured section of yarn finished.

As these were intended to be boot socks, and Susan has very thick calves I deemed it best to do some measurements first. Her calf measures 42cm which worked out at 80 stitches rather than the 40 required by the pattern. So I cast on 80 stitches (using knit double cast on rather than the long tail which I really should have used – but am too impatient to fiddle about with) to the 3.5m straight needles and knitted 9 rows of standard 2x2 ribbing.

Then reduced the number of stitches by purling together on the wrong side (so that the pattern looked the same on the right side) thus:

Row 10 (rs): K2, P2tog,*[K2, P2 three times] K2, P2tog. Repeat from * to end of row
Row 11 (ws): Follow previous row pattern
Row 12: K2, P1, K2, P2tog,*[K2, P2 twice] K2, P1, K2, P2tog. Repeat from * to end of row
Row 13: (ws): Follow previous row pattern
Row 14: *K2, P1, K2, P1, K2 P2tog, K2 P1. Repeat from * to end of row
Row 15: (ws): Follow previous row pattern
Row 16: K2, P1 to end
Row 17: P2, K1 to end (60 stitches)
Row 18: Knit all stitches from straight 3.5mm needles to DPN 4.0mm needles (or 4.0mm circular needle.) Join into circle and sew up edges.

Note: I usually start knitting in the round by doing a few rows on straight needles – it saves having to keep frogging back because you've got the work twisted. In this case it made it much easier to keep track of the stitch reductions.

Over the next few rows reduce the number of stitches on the needles by sskpo every 8 stitches on first row, every six stitches 3rd row, every 5 stitches 6th row until there are 40 stitches on the needles. Continue until work measures 23cm or so. Then divide stitches on needles and follow pattern.
ina_jean: (Default)
2016-11-20 06:46 am
Entry tags:

Emergency Slippers

Last week we booked a holiday cottage in Lincolnshire so that I could visit my sister and do some sight-seeing with the dogs. It was a very nice cottage a converted stables. The only problem was that it had tiled floors (and a few rugs) very practical for the dogs but I hadn't been able to find my travel slippers to pack. I did have my crochet hooks and some spare yarn from the skirt project so made up one of the 'Bow Belle' slippers in grey and pink and started on a second one - but ran out of pink yarn.

No problem. I knew Louth had loads of yarn shops (indeed, I had bought the yarn for the pair of slippers I'd made for my sister to this pattern at one of them). Unfortunately no one had a pink dk pure cotton yarn in stock. Since I didn't have the ball band I wasn't sure what brand I should be looking for.

The next day we went to Horncastle, which also has a yarn shop (I suppose its the Linconshire sheep tradition that means they have far more shops per town than Essex has in the county). They did have the right yarn in blue, so at least I knew I was looking for 'Cotton On'. They also had a dumper with 'end of range' yarn at £1 a ball so I bought two balls or chenille (last year I was looking everywhere for chenille yarn and could I find any? Not even on the internets!), one in blue (with ball-band identifying it as a Wendy yarn) and one in green (larger, no ball-band).

Back home I frantically hooked up a second slipper in blue and devised a contrast 'cuff' in green. This left me with not enough blue for a matching slipper so I am making a counter-match for the other foot. Chenille is the ideal material for slippers, lovely and soft.

Pattern Notes:
Start with magic ring (rather than 2ch of pattern) and 6dc. Pull ring tight, join, then:
Round 2: 2dc into each stitch. (12)
Round 3: (1dc, 2dc into next stitch). Repeat to start (18)
Round 4: (2dc, 2dc into next stitch). Repeat to start (24)
Round 5: (3dc, 2dc into next stitch). Repeat to start (30)
Round 6: dc round (30)
Round 7: (4dc, 2dc into next stitch). Repeat to start (36)
Round 8 to 17: dc round.
Round 18: Mark off 5 stitches. Turn, DC to marker, turn (31 stitches)
Round 19: 1ch. dc2 tog work to last 2 stitches dc2tog, turn (29 stitches)
Round 20: 1ch, dc round turn.

Repeat round 20 until slipper reaches to ball of foot (another 17 rows approx)
Mark centre of work (14 stitches for right foot, 15 for left)

Work heel:
Row 1: 1ch, 10dc 4x dc2tog 11dc, turn. (25)
Row 2: 1ch, 10dc 2x dc2tog 11dc, turn. (23)
Row 3: 1ch, 10dc, turn.
Row 4: 1ch, 10dc, Fasten off with long tail.

Use tail to sew up back of heel.

With contrast colour work 5 stitches in gap in front (hooking to join existing sides), then 1 row round opening of slipper. At centre front turn 1ch, dc to end turn. continue until cuff is 1" high (or as desired) Fasten off at back.
ina_jean: (Default)
2016-10-16 02:57 pm
Entry tags:

A House for John (Part 1 - Walls)

After posting the pictures of Draco's Wall to Facebook I got a comment from John asking whether I could knit a house for him. Not being one to back down from a challenge (especially if it is a silly one), I had a look through my craft magazines and found two patterns for houses, a crochet one for a Halloween House designed to hold sweet treats and a knitted 'beach hut' stuffed cushion/doorstop. I decided to go with the knitted one - with adaptations.

I have the brown and yellow DK left over from Draco's antler hat, and various other balls of DK in the stash - though I will have to buy more in red for the roof - since I need red for Draco's Flaming Tyre (TM) I will pop out and buy some.

The pattern is in separate parts, 4 walls, floor and roof, all joined by sewing together and stuffing. I started knitting the side walls (40 stitches on 3.25mm circular needles) in stripes of two rows yellow and two rows brown. After the designated 67 rows I put in a row of lace holes and dropped the yellow knitting the base in brown only for 30 rows, then another row of lace holes, cast back on the yellow and continued with the second wall.

For the sides I used a crochet hook to cast on 26 stitches along one side of the base, picked up the stitches on the needles and continued in pattern until the side matched the main wall. Then knitted four rows (two of pattern, plus two extra) in yellow and decreased one stitch at each end of every right side row until left with three stitches - K2 tog twice and finish. Did the same for the other side wall.

Am now about to work out how to do the doors and windows and the roof.
ina_jean: (Default)
2016-08-18 07:00 am
Entry tags:

Draco's Agility Wall

When I joined the Agility Knitters group on Facebook I decided to actually knit an agility fence. I used a picture of a 'brick wall rug' from a book on knitting rugs as a basis but didn't think it worth spending any more money than I had to on actually buying a book for one pattern for a silly project.

The local Pound Shop (on Manford Way) has a good selection of cheap acrylic yarns, so I bought a ball of King Cole Super Chunky each in dark red (wine) bright red, orange (Mango) and grey (for the mortar rows). I needed an extra ball of a 'brick' colour so ordered a light brown (Sahara) from Wool Warehouse - whole lot came to about £10.

I wanted a chance to try out the size 6mm 'Symphonie' straight needles Frankie gave me as a Christmas present so cast on 30 stitches of the wine and knitted in moss stitch until the work was 'brick-sized' which turned out to be 13 rows. I threaded those onto a circular needle (with a 1m cable) and knitted three more in mango and red, finishing with a half-brick (15 stitches 13 rows)in wine. That gave me five separate pieces of knitting on the circular needle.

At this point I abandoned the straight needles and used the circular for the rest of the work. *Cast on with the grey and knitted the first 30 stitches of the first brick, Then made a stitch and used a 5mm crochet hook to crochet down the side of the brick, left a 4" loop (7" of yarn) at the bottom and crocheted up the side of the next brick. Looped the yarn back over the needle, then took a darning needle and (using a spare bit of DK yarn as a holder) threaded the loose loop through both sides of the crochet stitches to pull the two together. put the final bit of the loop over the rh needle, then picked up the stitch from the lh needle and continued in knit along the top of the second brick. Repeat process until the end of the row.

(I could have cast on a short length of grey and knitted the bricks together using fair isle technique - but there were going to be enough ends to sew in already without adding more!)

Wall in progress
Front and back of complete work before adding backing fabric.

Knit four rows of 'mortar' ending with yarn at same end as the start.

Cast on a contrast colour to the brick below and knit a second brick (or half-brick). Put the three 'mortar' stitches onto a holding thread or needle, and knit next brick in different colour. Continue to end then repeat from * above.

Make sure the crochet stitches are done on the front of the work and the grey mortar rows always begin at the same side of the work (it doesn't matter which end you start knitting the bricks from - the delights of circular needles!).

Stop when the work measures 4" shorter than the required fence height. (Five courses of bricks equal the 'small' KC height.) Complete the last line of 'mortar' then continue in garter stitch to make a 'coping' which will form the channel to put the bar of the fence through.

You could simply sew the top stitching back on itself, but I am sewing the whole thing to a backing fabric for extra strength - and to prevent too much stretching in the wash.)

Final version held on a broomstick (actually a Vileda mop handle!) on my jump wings.
Knit Jump edit 1
ina_jean: (Default)
2016-07-18 04:42 pm
Entry tags:

Handkerchief Cardi 3 (Left front and cuffs)


It turned out that while doing the YO increases before the red texture front was fine going from SS to texture, doing it the other way, from red texture to black SS either meant that the black crept diagonally into the red, or the two sections fell apart. After several attempts I gave up and did the join by slip stitching the yarn, and added the increases at the end of each row. Since the fall of the front covers the join I think it looks OK.

And I didn't have quite enough red to do both cuffs to two inches so instead of doing the cuffs separately as in the pattern (which is done like that for good reason), I sewed up the seams and put 60 stitches round the cuffs with double pointed needles, did an inch in black and finished with half of what was left of the red on each side - which worked out at about an inch of red textured cuff.

It's a lovely little bolero/cardi, which will get a lot of use in autumn. Though I am a bit disappointed that I didn't meet my objective of following a pattern exactly using the correct yarn and needles.
ina_jean: (Default)
2016-06-05 05:09 pm
Entry tags:

Handkerchief Cardi 2 (Right Front)

I finished the back over our holiday - I was right about it being easy but boring.

Have just started on the right front which is much more interesting! I'm using 2 colours - black for the plain knitting and red for the pattern. I did wonder how the join was going to work, since the increases are done in the middle of the front by yarn over loops. In the event it turned out that using two colours makes it easier to keep track of the pattern. Make the YO with the black yarn on the RS, then knit it in with the red yarn on the WS. This means that all the k1/p1 texture stitches are made in red yarn - you don't have to remember to add an extra knit stitch on every second row. I am, nevertheless, counting obsessively and making notes.

In other knitting news, I stumbled across a charity shop while on holiday that had a huge collection of second-hand needles - some of which would have been useful, but I didn't have my note of what I've got. I did buy a second stitch counter though.
ina_jean: (Default)
2016-05-21 11:50 am
Entry tags:

Handkerchief Cardi (Forest Fern 1)

I have put the Tahiti cardi on hold as it's not something I can safely knit while doing anything else. I do need a lightweight cardi though, and liked the pattern for 'Forest Fern' in the 100 knitting patterns 'free' book that came with last month's edition of 'Lets Knit' (100 patterns and a magazine for £6 - bargain!).

I happen to have both yarn alternatives given in the pattern in my stash - the black and red 'Moods' bought to make the 'riot' skirt but too bulky for the job, and some Sirdar 'Country Style' in a shade of yellow-green almost as vile as the colour used in the pattern illustration. I decided to make the pattern using the red (1 ball) for the detail work on hem cuffs and collar and the black to the back and sleeves. This will mean a bit of fiddling on the fronts, but hopefully not as much as the Tahiti! Meanwhile knitting up the back is quite straightforward, and rather restful.

I think this is the first thing I've knitted (or attempted to knit) that I've not had to make some change to needles,yarn or pattern!
ina_jean: (Default)
2016-05-19 02:58 pm
Entry tags:

Tahiti Cardigan (2. Starting out)

I decided to knit the body in one piece on a circular needle (I keep calling then 'cable needles', because they are long cables - forgetting that a cable needle is something quite other - forgive me.)

The pattern's largest size gives 90 stitches for the back and 42 for each front - a total of 172, which was what I started with, but worked up a bit short for my 40" waist - so I am now working with 198 - and will be plying the tape measure as I go!

Cast on with the pink yarn and knit 15 rows (2.5") of 1x1 ribbing on 3.50mm needles.

Change to white yarn and 4.5mm needles (I love Knitpro needles, you just unscrew the smaller needles and screw on the larger ones). Mark off 21 stitches in first section, then 20 stitch groups to end - this is essential in keeping track of the pattern which is a four-stitch repeat - so you know within 4 repeats if you've gone wrong.

I ended up frogging the first three rows four times before getting the hang of the pattern - in future I'll knit up the tension square in pattern to get the rhythm right. In fact it's quite simple. K1 at start of row, then K2, Yarn over needle, slip one, knit one, pass slipped stitch over. Repeat to end then K1 to finish, turn. P1, P2, Yarn over needle, p two together. Repeat to end, p1. After the first two rows the second stitch of each 4-stitch repeat will be made into the yarn over loop - if not you've gone wrong!

After a few inches the work started to slope alarmingly to the left. I assumed this was my error in the early rows, and frogged back to the ribbing to start again,, but it seems that the slope is a result of psso on the knit rows but knitting two together on the purl ones (slipping a stitch slopes the work left - K2tog doesn't compensate with a right hand slope. So I am experimenting with slipping on both the knit and purl rows - do not want to frog back again.

If not I shall call it my 'Raspberry Twist cardi and treat it as a feature.

Tahiti in progress
ina_jean: (Default)
2016-05-19 02:37 pm
Entry tags:

Raspberry Ripple (Tahiti) Cardigan (1 - Yarn and Pattern)

Back to the old yarn in the back of the wardrobe! I have three balls of yarn, one predominantly pink, the other two mainly white, with a random dark pink twist that knits up into a sort of 'Raspberry/Strawberry Ripple Icecream' effect. They were sold as 200g balls with a band giving a pattern for a very 80s sleeveless top.

Casual top yarn

(Don't you love the hairstyle?)

I used the first ball to make up a crochet shawl when I started yarn-working again a few years back.

When I was in Louth I bought an old Lister pattern for a summer cardigan in a mohair-type yarn called 'Tahiti' which appears to knit up to the same tension as the Ripple (11wpi)- so decided to make it my next project (I need a lightweight cardi).

Tahiti pattern

Lister Lee Pattern no. K1804: Lady's Cardigan in Lister-Lee Five Star Tahiti or Giselle or Tropicana

This is going to be as big a project as the cable cardi - so I am splitting it into separate posts.
ina_jean: (Default)
2016-05-12 02:44 pm
Entry tags:

Best Laid Plans...

When I was making Draco's green coat (in Drops Big Fabel Aran weight) I re-ordered some extra yarn in the same colour but made a mistake and got Drops Fabel instead - which is a very fine fingering designed for socks. I've also impulse bought some very fine yarn called 'Riot' in a shade of mixed red and brown called 'Volcano' which I'd sort of earmarked for a throat-warmer.

The circular short-row skirt I made up in some found laceweight yarn is actually designed for Drops Fabel. As it was so successful I decided to make up a version in the fine 'Riot' and looked for a plain black and a red in the same weight and mix (70%acrylic 30%wool) Despite being so fine Riot is listed as 'dk' but there is no plain colourway so I ordered some King Cole Moods in those colours to complement it.

I also ordered some plain green to go with the Fabel to make up into a top.

It all arrived yesterday and the black and red are much heavier than the 'riot' so I shall have to re-think that. On the other hand the Fabel is the right yarn for a skirt - and the Moods is the right yarn for the top I was going to use the Fabel for - so I have decided to swap them. Sill have no idea what to do with the Riot though :(
ina_jean: (Default)
2016-05-05 02:56 pm
Entry tags:

Bren's Tennis Ball Holder

Ever since I saw the animal-themed 'Break Time Apple Cosies' in Crochet Gifts #3 I thought it would make a great way of keeping a tennis ball handy when out walking the dogs.

I got a set of yarn intended for making cute farmyard animals from the latest issue of Lets Knit (bought for the 100 patterns free book) which gave me the colours I needed. Any washable acrylic DK yarn would do.

Using a 3.5mm hook and brown yarn, make 2ch and join to make ring.

1. 6dc into ring (6)
2. 2dc into each dc round (12)
3. 1dc, 2dc into next stitch x6 (18)
4. 2dc, 2dc into next stitch x6 (24)
5. 3dc, 2dc into next stitch x6 (30)
6. 4 dc, 2dc into next stitch x6 (36)
7 to 11. 36 dc round (NB If tube is not wide enough to take ball, dc 2 into every 6th stitch on Row 8 (40))
12. Change to white yarn. 1ch, dc round. Turn.
13. 1ch, dc round (NB,, if you made an increase at Row 8 now do decrease (ch2tog) at same point) (36)
14. 1ch, *4dc, 1dc2tog, rept from * to end, turn (30)
15 to 17 1ch, 30 dc turn.
18. 1ch, 30dc, 20ch, ss into first ch of fastening then dc all round opening. Fasten off and break yarn. Sew in end.

Ears (make 2)

On UK size 11 needles (I think this is 3.5 again bus can't be arsed to check) cast on 10 stitches in brown yarn. Knit 6 rows ss ending on p row. Make pointed shape as follows:
7. s1, k1, psso, k6, k2tog
8. p8
9. s1, k1, psso, k4, k2tog
10. p6
11. s1, k1, psso, k2, k2tog
12. p4
13. k2tog x2
14 p2
15 K2tog, cast off and secure thread.


With scrap black yarn (I knew there was some somewhere), work first three rows of main body to make a circle. Leave long tail to sew into place.

Making up,

Button (see note on black yarn - a white one would be good. Or a brown one): Sew onto opposite side of the loop, positioning so ball will be held safely inside.

Sew ears on either side at point where brown yarn meets white. Check that ear tips hang forward.

Sew nose between inside edges of ears and slightly below. Use longtail to make mouth. Try not to make it look like a teddy bear (the pointy ears help)

Sew eyes on the same row of crochet above nose and below eyes.

Push small carabiner or keyring fastening through base of the opening to hang.

Take photo and post to Ravelry.
Bren likes his ball
ina_jean: (Default)
2016-05-03 06:30 am
Entry tags:

Crochet Slippers

The first 'garment' I made after re-discovering crochet was a pair of slippers from the magazine 'Crochet Gifts #3' which gave helpfull step by step instructions in picture form. The result was the 'Bow Belle' yellow and brown slippers. The pattern was for a wool/cotton dk mix yarn but I used a thinner pure cotton, made them longer to fit my feet, and also added a strap to stop them falling off.

My sister saw me wearing them on a visit (they are my usual travelling slipped as small enough to fit into a case) and asked for a pair. She picked out a similar cotton yarn and I worked up the pattern with c=variations to ensure they fitted better without the strap (easier as her feet are shorter than mine).

Starting with white yarn and 2 joined dc to make a starting ring.
1. 6dc into ring (6)
2. 2dc into each dc round (12)
3. 1dc, 2dc into next stitch x6 (18)
4. 2dc, 2dc into next stitch x6 (24)
5. 3dc, 2dc into next stitch x6 (30)
6. dc round (30)
7. 4 dc, 2dc into next stitch x6 (36)
8 to 10. dc round
11. If tube begins to 'flare' dc two together on opposite sides of work (34)
12 - 14. Continue dc until toe measures 2.5"
15. Change to blue yarn. Continue to dc round for further 14 rows (34)

Work body.
1. Mark off five stitches in the centre of the work opposite the place where the two colours join (this will then be hidden on the sole). Work dc to first marker. Turn. 1ch, dc back to second marker. (this leaves three stitches unworked)(31)
2. 1ch, dc into next stitch (not the base of the ch), dc 30
3. as 2 above. (29)
4. as 2 above (28)
5 - 7. Continue working these 28 stitches in dc for 3 rows.
8. 1ch. 2dc in first dc, 28dc (29)
9. 1ch. 2dc in first dc, 29dc (30)
10 - 11. 1 ch, 30dc, turn (30)
12. 1ch. 2dc in first dc, 30dc (31)
13. 1ch. 2dc in first dc, 31dc (32)
14 - 21. Continue working dc on these 32 stitches until work is 2 rows short of foot length required.

Shape heel
22. 1ch, 11dc, dc2tog 5 times 11dc (27)
23. 1ch, 10dc, dc2tog 3 times, 10dc (23)

Fasten off, break yarn leaving long tail and use to sew up back seam.

1. Join white to top of back seam and work round edge in dc.
2. 1dc 1ch, miss one, 1dc in next stitch to end of 'body'. dc round front of foot then continue 1ch, miss one, 1dc in next stitch to back seam. fasten off, weave in ends.

Rose Decoration. (Simply Crochet Issue 27)

Using white yarn ch 30.
1. 1dc into second ch from hook. ch2. skip 1 ch *1dc into next ch, ch2, skip 1ch. Rpt from * to end. Turn

2. Ch 1 (dc, htr, 2tr, htr, dc) into each ch2 space. ss into first dc of prev row.

Fasten off leaving a long tail. Roll strip into a flower shape and sew together using long tail. Sew to front of d=slipper on contrast section.
ina_jean: (Default)
2016-03-05 09:04 am
Entry tags:

Dance With Me Skirt

Sometime in the late 1990s I bought a knitting machine and stocked up on a lot of lightweight yarn, mostly purchased at Coldspring Mills in (then) Keighley, to use with it. I ran up a lightweight top for Susan, and then we moved house and the machine went into store (I am not at all sure I still have all the parts and should probably send it to the tip). The remaining yarn went into the top of my wardrobe.

A couple of years ago I took two big packs of yarn down to the boot sale and assumed that was the end of it.

When I started on this hand knitting thing I found a Coldspring bag at the back of my wardrobe with a half-finished skirt (two panels) in it and some odd unlabelled laceweight slub yarn. I considered using the already knitted bits to make a new top, but hand-knitting doesn't work the same as machine, so I frogged the pieces and looked for a skirt pattern to use the same yarn and found 'Dance With Me', A lovely gored skirt in two colours (actually a dress, but I don't have to make the bodice).

The unnamed yarn (I suspect from Lister but long discontinued) knitted up to the correct tension so I have started on the pattern

It says to cast on over two needles - and then withdraw one to make a looser cast on. Since I have never used a hand-cast (tried it once and it really was too tight) I just used a large straight needle to cast on to the circular one. I have roughly the same amount of brown yarn and pink-and-white yarn so rather than follow the pattern colours I am using the pink for the plain knitting and the brown for the short-row gores. I am also working all the pattern from the waist so that I can knit both yarns together at the top and avoid having to break where the colours change (this means working one row of brown from top to bottom to work the first half of the gore.

After the fiddling of the cable cardi it's a relief to have to do nothing nut plain knitting (though I am making occasional gloves to break the monotony).

Test piece. laceweight yarn 1
ina_jean: (Default)
2016-01-30 11:13 am
Entry tags:

Double Cable Cardigan 4 (Sleeve Dilemma)

I finished the back and sewed the body pieces together. Then thought about the sleeves.

There is a way of working sleeves directly into the armholes, but I couldn't find any reliable advice on t'internets. Had a go at starting the cuffs 'in the round' but the increases defeated me. So went back to working from the cuffs up in the traditional way (incidentally why are sleeves worked from the bottom? It means you can't adjust the length if (like me) you're running out of wool.

I misread the increases at the start and had to frog back to the ribbing. I am now at the two-thirds stage and only have one ball of wool left. My supplier seems to have run out of this colour (though they do have a matching colour that would do for the trimmings - which I must order!)

Current plan is to finish the sleeve I'm working on and check that it fits. Then I need to unravel from the cuff up to have enough original yarn to finish the other sleeve. Will then buy three balls of the contrast yarn to finish the new cuffs and trim.

I hope it's worth it.
ina_jean: (Default)
2016-01-16 07:40 am
Entry tags:

Casting On

I'm about to start a new project (a skirt - more later) and it starts with the instruction to 'Loosely cast on 140 stitches on 2 circular needles. Pull out one of the needles and continue to work as below.'

I was momentarily baffled, and then realised that this is an instruction to use a 'finger cast on' in which the yarn is wound round the fingers and slipped onto the needles and then pulled tight.

I was taught two casting on methods by my mother - both of which use two needles, transferring the knitted loop back onto the left hand needle. It was only when reading a letter in a knitting magazine, asking 'how do you do a needle cast on?' that I realised my method is either (a) too British or (b) too old-fashioned, to be considered normal in the 21st century.

I did get hold of an instruction book and tried doing a finger cast on - the resultant stitches were far too tight for me to carry on knitting so I undid them and re-cast with needles.

Which explains the instruction to cast on over two needles and then pull one out. Which requires you to have two circular needles of the same gauge and length - which seems like overkill to me (also v expensive). In the event I used a straight needle to cast on to the circular one - giving a lovely loose row of stitches on which to start the work.

Weirdly the instruction then required me to use a different colour to knit the first 12 rows. This is going to be an interesting knit.
ina_jean: (Default)
2015-12-24 09:08 am
Entry tags:

Double Cable Cardigan 3 (Front armcise)

It turned out that making the armhole decreases is the most difficult thing when adapting a pattern for a different tension. I am probably going to have to do some serious fudging when it gets to knitting the sleeves. However, this is taken from my notes. (I am now on Side Two so am typing this up before I end up frogging and starting again!)

Knit in pattern to Row 90 (purl row - continue to do cables while making decreases).

Row 91: Cast off 5 stitches on side opposite pocket (ensure that the cables run up the centre front of the cardigan).

Rows 92 to 97 decrease one stitch on armhole side on each row (K2Tog) (41 stitches on needle)

Rows 99 to 121 Decrease one stitch on armhole side on alternate (purl) rows only.

From Row 103 decrease 1 stitch at centre front (other end from armhole) on every third row.

Continue decreases until only cable pattern stitches left on needle. Place these stitches on holder.

Knit Left Front as right reversing pattern. (ie. after ribbing, K12, p1, C4B,p1, K26, K1, C4B, P1, K2. Centre cable is C6F.)

I am currently on Row 91 of the left front. It is taking 2.25 balls per side, so I am not sure I will have enough for sleeves - hope I can source a couple more balls somewhere.
ina_jean: (Default)
2015-12-07 07:29 am
Entry tags:

Double Cable Cardigan - 2 (Front cable cont.)

I re-knitted the pockets, adding a line of purl stitches up either side of the 6-row cable and put the stitches on a circular needle rather than a stitch holder to facilitate transfer to the pocket gap.

I have charted the pattern and and am mostly relying on that - but also recording actual stitches.

Row 39: Work 8 stitches in pattern. Cast off 28 stitches. Work in pattern to end.

Row 40: Transfer pocket stitches onto needle between the two lots of front stitches. Purl (in pattern) across all 52 stitches.

It helps to pin (or actually sew) the pocket in place at this point to keep the work in one piece. The next row sets up the cables to meet - Note second cable is worked with needle to back instead of front for the next 7 rows. Reduce number of stitches between cables each row by one each side of main cable.

Row 41: K3, P1, C4F, P1, K8, P1, C6B, P1, K8, P1, C4B, P1, K13.
Row 42: P14, K1, P4, K1, P7, K1, P6, K1, P7, K1, P4, K1 P4
Row 43: K5, P1, C4F, P1, K6, P1, K6, P1, K6, P1, C4B, P1, K15.
Row 44: P16, K1, P4, K1, P5, K1, P6, K1, P5, K1, P4, K1 P6.
Row 45: K7, P1, C4F, P1, K4, P1, K6, P1, K4, P1, C4B, P1, K17.
Row 46: P18, K1, P4, K1, P3, K1, P6, K1, P3, K1, P4, K1 P8.
Row 47: K9, P1, C4F, P1, K2, P1, C6B, P1, K2, P1, C4B, P1, K19.
Row 48: P20, K1, P4, K2, P6, K2, P4, K1 P10.
Row 49 (resets pattern as centre cable group): K11 P1, C4F, P2, K6, P2 C4F, P1, K20.

Row 50 (And all subsequent purl rows): P20, K1, P4, K2, P6, K2, P4, K1, P12

Work from pattern making side cable every 4 rows and centre cable every 6 rows.

Row 51 Knit across all cables
Row 53 Make all three cables
Row 55 Knit across all cables
Row 57 Make side cables, knit across centre cable

In the next post I'll be talking (hopefully) about sleeve decreases...